Upgrade Formaker

Hi Guys,

As you all might know, CTC has built a direct copy of the Replicator 2X but upgraded it with more functions.
Since it is based on the Replicator 2X we have some options for upgrade.

I found a website that provides uprated parts.
Many of the parts will make our unit much more stable when it comes to CNC work and I plan on ordering a couple of them.

https://shop.raffle.ch/

What exactly have you in mind?

I'm completely new to CNC, so I don't know what is the best option to order and how will it influence CNC capabilities. Could you share and describe what you will / makes sense to order?

Thing is, CNC puts a lot of torque on all the parts.
If you even try to CNC aluminium with the current plastic setup it will not work or the detail will be so bad that it wont be worth it.

I am going to order Alu-X-ends and AluCarriage Dual since they are plastic without bearings currently.
On top of that I am going to upgrade the linear bearings with the ones on this site.

Agree, the plastic used in formaker might suffer a lot stress during CNC print.

When looking at the price altogether it's gonna be over 300$ + shipping - it's quite expensive. I guess there is no alternative in here?
Yet, I need to check how the CNC motor works and if the power supply holds fine.
Have you tried connecting the USB already?

I have not yet tested my USB on my new board.
I have been busy replacing yet another failed bearing with an upgraded one.
Also I have been budy troubleshooting failed prints.

Upgrade time!
Next issues on the list.

Bearing on the top left.
http://www.combomakers.com/images/bearing_left.jpg

Full metal filament extruders.
http://www.combomakers.com/images/uprated_extruder.jpg

Next upgrade will be the hot ends.
I am thinking about what to do and have not yet made up my mind. I would love to water cool this!

Great, were did you buy the full metal extruder? I have many problems with the existing extruders...

Hi Sid,

I ordered them from here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-Makerbot-Replicator-2X-Extruder-Upgrade-Edition-Full-Metal-Extruder-/131752275263?hash=item1ead0c2d3f:g:3MgAAOSwoudW5stm

Put them on yesterday. It was a bit tight and the wooden top did not fit afterwards, but I did not find any need for it in any case.

About the extruders, it might be worth of filament and printing time to first try out this solution:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53125

The metal ones are based on this design and from what I read about 3D printers upgrades, it is highly recommended.
You still need to buy some hardware (spring and screws), but comes cheaper than metal ones and it is homemade .

I've already ordered parts and gonna print it myself, so when I'm done I can post it on forum.

Problems.
My wires for the X axis stepper have ALL broken off after my last upgrade.
Now I have sent the last 2 hours replacing the broken sections. 

If anyone is seeing the stepper making bad sounds and not moving properly or the microswitch not working then this is the cause.
You find the break easy by running your nail with some force along the wire. If you find a soft spot then try to pulled the wire, if it stretcha then its broken and its better to pulled it apart.
One last test is crusial. Try pulling on all the wires, if any of them streck then they need fixing.
For fixing remember that the break is where the wire flexes at most so you can not just solder them and think it will work. You need to replace at least 2 or 3cm of cable to make it last. I replaced 5cm on all my wires with a larger diameter wire.
Also shrink wrapped everything two times and also shrink wrapped the whole cable to make it flex less.

Lets hope it will last!

Thanks, Mikael, for the alert, need to make sure this does not fall apart soon. Was it an effect of doing the upgrade or rather was all along? 

Could you also add some photos of the part where it breaks and how you fixed it? I'm not 100% sure, where the break is, so this could help a lot.

Here is an image of One of the broken cables.
http://www.combomakers.com/images/broken_cable1.jpg
Sorry for the horrible focus, its on the right side to the X-axis Stepper AND Micro Switch cables.
All except 2 cables were off.

Does anyone know how to instal heat bead on formaker it would be much help thank  and this forum help out alot too

Hi mikeal how the upgrade going i just want to know if i
Buy this would it fit the formaker https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32728776502.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32728776502&productSubject=Replicator-3d-printer-aluminum-upgrade-parts-Replicator-Flashforge-Upgrade-X-axis-metal-Extruder-Carriage-Y-axis&spm=2114.40010708.4.102.lsG9Zy

Hi mikeal how the upgrade going i just want to know if i
Buy this would it fit the formaker https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32728776502.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32728776502&productSubject=Replicator-3d-printer-aluminum-upgrade-parts-Replicator-Flashforge-Upgrade-X-axis-metal-Extruder-Carriage-Y-axis&spm=2114.40010708.4.102.lsG9Zy

Hey All, Sorry for the delay!
I got twins in January and some times are better then others.

Regarding the machine.
I just got done with the V6 hot end swap and almost burnt my house down.
The heating elements or the temperature sensors are not working properly for some reason.
Once I got it working ill write a How To with all the issues I ran in to and the STL files with links to parts.

Hello Mikael,
first of all: Congratulations, i hope the twins are doing well!
I have a E3D Clone lying around but i am looking for the right holder right now...
Looking forward to hear from you!

Hi Tobi,

I used one that was downloadable from thingiverse. It was originally constructed for the Replicator, but I modified my Formaker to accept Replicator heads.
What you will need to do is use the current heater and temperature sensor. Other then that its not too hard, you will only need to drill one hole for the filament feed mounts.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1739097

You will need to modify this so it will make contact with the end switch on the right hand side.

I have ran in to more problems, just got the extra spare parts yesterday.
The hose connectors on the V6 (clone) were horrible and destroyed the teflon tube. So I ordered new pneumatic hose fittings and will need to reconstruct how the thing is built for it to work properly.

The issue is that the teflon tube needs to go all the way down inside the V6. The pneumatic connectors are not built to force down the tube with the amount of force needed, so when I tried it destroyed the tube creating a lot of friction on the filament.
What I am going to do is to cut a smaller tube out and put it inside the V6, then try to get the new fittings to match so the filament can glide down.

Problems, problems and more problems.
Steppers missing steps since the friction is higher when I repositioned the feeds.
Cause seems to be the drivers and the drivers are not adjustable.
Need to find new ones so I can feed more current.

Update.
I have now replaced the Driver with one that is adjustable.
I have not yet tested but am going to do soon.[url=https://servimg.com/view/19573924/1][img]https://i.servimg.com/u/f37/19/57/39/24/img_2010.jpg[/img][/url]

Hi,
I see you are working on the Board directly, thats what i was afraid of right now but i think i have to make some changes.
Does anyone already tried to flash a new Firmware to the mightyboard? I would like to use an inductive Sensor for the Z-Axis and than do the auto bed leveling.
When i connect the Formaker to a laptop it is recognized as mightyboard...I used an old laptop because is was afraid of the USB Burn-Problem but it seemed to work well.
Does anyone know if it is possible to update the boards firmware?

Thank you!

I have fortunately managed to upgrade to V6 E3D hotends using the exisitng wiring and sensors from original hotends. I had to ofcourse change the carrier holder to that one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1446512 and move bowden extruder to the back using this mount: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1516966, in which I have customized the monoprice holder and retainer, so it fits Formaker. 

The change was long due (I've printed all necessary parts a while ago), but screwing up right nozzle, with wrongly levered bed had speed up the process . I have generally followed this tutorial https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/hack-your-makerbot-with-an-e3d-all-metal-hotend, but haven't done any rewiring and used different bowden mounts as described above.

Also I have already run first print with old settings, which came out so-so, but I see, that tweaking is required to make V6 run better.

szalap, I also got mine mounted and was tweaking print settings but during this tweaking my screen stopped working so now I am stuck.
I have removed the (I have figured out) Mightyboard Rev A board since it wont run Sailfish and I think I am going to replace it with a much better version with 1/64 step drivers then perhaps do some major rework on the machine to get it working better then before.

If I am able to get an answer from CTC on spare parts then ill get the machine back to stock. If not then it will be another rebuild

Let me know how it went with CTC support, I've tried asking them for better or new steel-plate (to which bed is mounted to, now it wobbles when moving up and down), but got no concrete decision from them after few back-and-forths.

Did you start your complete redo already? I'm curious how Sailfish would do instead of the formaker stock firmware and even looked into it few months ago, but didn't dare to plan swtching or anything. Do you have any upgrade manual you go through or just gathering this after reading online?

Hello,

CTC have not even answered my emails, so I am having 0 luck there.

I have not yet started the rebuild but I think I am going with a RADDS v1.5 since it can do 1/128 microsteps and has 6 stepper control and has inputs for a thermocouple for super high temperature use.